The South American Altiplano March 2013 - Strikes In Copacabana And Detour Through Peru

***This post is part 6 of a full trip report. The index can be found here***

The day prior to leaving Copacabana, we went to the Titicaca Bolivia office to inquire about tickets to La Paz. Tourist buses cost about 30 Bolivianos and depart daily at 1:30 pm, with another possible departure late in the afternoon. There are also local buses that leave every hour for about half the price. 

Besides comfort, the main trade-off is the fact that local buses will drop you off at the cemetery bus terminal in La Paz, which is located in a more dangerous area outside the center of town. There have been documented robberies against tourists here, especially at night, so we opted to play it safe and booked the tourist bus instead.

We were warned, however, that there was a high possibility of a workers strike the next day. When that occurs, all transportation into and out of Copacabana ceases, and we would be left stranded. Of course, our tickets would be refunded. Feeling somewhat helpless, we hoped for the best and returned to the hotel.

Ominously, we woke up the next morning to the sound of loud chants and banging drums. From our windows, we could see a long parade of strikers marching through town.

Strike in Copacabana

Still clinging on to a shred of hope, we quickly got ready, checked out of our hotel, and headed to Titicaca Bolivia to see what the situation was like. Unfortunately, we were informed that all roads out of Copacabana had been blocked by strikers, and even the remaining possibility of taking a boat out of town was unfeasible since the boat drivers were refusing to cross the picket line.

The only way we could leave Copacabana that day would be to walk eight kilometers back to the Peruvian border at Kasani, find a taxi or shared minibus to drive us to the alternate border crossing at Desaguadero approximately an hour away, and then catch a local bus from Desaguadero to La Paz. This would be a huge detour, not to mention a complete waste of time crossing back into Peru and then returning to Bolivia. But it was the only option left.

After we made the decision to hike it out of Copacabana, we left immediately so as not to waste any more time. Behind us were at least another half dozen backpackers who were determined to leave as well. The eight kilometers to the border turned out to be relatively flat, but walking with the weight of all of our belongings under the intense sun was still very strenuous. On the way, we passed by several makeshift roadblocks set up by the strikers, including large stones and toppled tree limbs.

Starting the hike back to the Kasani

Edge of town

Leaving Copacabana behind

The South American Altiplano March 2013 - Exploring Copacabana And Isla Del Sol

***This post is part 5 of a full trip report. The index can be found here***

Say the word "Copacabana", and the first image that comes to mind may be the sunny beaches of Rio de Janiero. Unbeknownst to many, however, is the fact that the famous Copacabana Beach is actually named after a small town along the shores of Lake Titicaca.

The town's preeminent basilica, one of the oldest churches in Bolivia, houses a revered statue of the Virgen de la Candelaria, to whom many miracles have been attributed. Carved in 1583, the statue turned the community into a pilgrimage site, and its fame quickly spread throughout South America. A replica was created in Rio de Janiero, and a chapel to house it was built along a white-sand beach, whose name was soon changed to Copacabana.

A beautiful place in its own right, Copacabana feels a world away from the rather dingy atmosphere of Puno. The streets were bustling, and the vibrant beach on Lake Titicaca were packed with tourists and locals alike. Maybe it was the gorgeous weather, or perhaps the relaxed demeanor of the locals, but something just made me feel completely at ease here. After a detour by the lakeshore, we hiked up a steep road (no easy feat considering the town is at 12,600 feet) and found our hotel, Hostal Las Olas, prominently situated on a steep hillside.

Main street in Copacabana

Lakeshore

Out of all the places I stayed at on this trip, I was most looking forward to Las Olas. Take a look at their website, and you'll probably understand why. "Hostel" is definitely a misnomer here, as each of the seven suites that make up the property is its own bungalow. And each bungalow has been individually designed like a life-sized art project. I imagine the owner to be some sort of eccentric recluse, because the creative quirks that went into each of these buildings is really quite impressive.

Hostal Las Olas

New seashell suite being constructed

View from the reception

The South American Altiplano March 2013 - Crossing Into Bolivia Via Kasani

***This post is part 4 of a full trip report. The index can be found here***

Border crossings by land can be a little tricky, especially when it comes to developing countries. The path between Southern Peru and Bolivia, however, is well-worn with backpackers from across the globe. As such, it is relatively safe and hassle-free. The two main routes in the Lake Titicaca region are either via Desaguadero or Kasani. 

Desaguadero is the larger of the two, and most people who want the fastest and most direct passage to La Paz will choose this course. Kasani is smaller, less chaotic, and more picturesque. It is also the only way to reach Copacabana from Puno. To get from Copacabana to La Paz, you will have to get off the bus at one point and take a ferry across a narrow strait on Lake Titicaca (the bus is ferried across separately by barge). Once you reach the other side, get back onto the same bus and continue on your journey.

Since we were headed to Copacabana, our only option was the Kasani route, which I actually preferred. We had booked the bus ticket through our hotel in Puno, and the cost was 18 soles per person, including a taxi ride from the hotel to the bus station. I believe there were three daily buses (6:00 am, 7:30 am, and 2:30 pm) leaving Puno for Copacabana, all operated by Titicaca Bolivia. We chose the 7:30 am departure, and made sure to arrive at the station by 7:10 am.

Taxi to Puno bus station

After locating the Titicaca Bolivia stand and confirming our tickets, we headed over to the Tasa de Embarque booth to pay the mandatory departure tax. Finally, we exited the building via the gate number listed on the tickets and found our double-decker bus waiting at its designated spot. I was surprised at how clean and modern the vehicle was. After reading so many horror stories online regarding buses in South America, I had been expecting the worst. Large backpacks were stored in the bottom compartment, and we then climbed aboard.

Bus station shops

Titicaca Bolivia stand

Paying the departure tax

Our bus to Copacabana