Showing posts with label Cambodia. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Cambodia. Show all posts

Monday, September 17, 2012

Cambodia April 2012 - Exploring Angkor Archaeological Park And Siem Reap

***This post is part 10 of a full trip report. The index can be found here*** 

As with most people, when I first started doing research for this trip, I didn't realize just how many temples there actually were in the area surrounding Siem Reap. I only knew of Angkor Wat, of course, and a couple of other famous sites like Ta Prohm and Bayon, and thought that was pretty much all there was to see. Boy was I wrong. There are literally hundreds of ruins within an area stretching out hundreds of miles from Angkor Wat, all in varying stages of decay or restoration.

Because I was traveling solo, I was a little more wary of exploring the entire Angkor Archaeological Park on my own, so I decided to hire a personal guide for the three full days that I would be there. Luckily, my housemate had been to Cambodia years earlier and recommended his guide, Nicky (or Yem in Khmer). Email correspondence setting up the itinerary was quick and easy, and I thought the $185 rate (excluding entrance fees) he charged was reasonable enough. He also seemed fairly proficient in English, which was very important since I tend to ask a lot of questions.

Typically, almost all visitors to Angkor Archaeological Park will do the Little Circuit, which includes the most famous sites like Angkor Thom, Ta Keo, Ta Prohm, and of course, Angkor Wat. For those with more time, the Big Circuit encompasses temples that are a little more obscure and farther away. However, some of these temples are definitely worth a visit, especially because they don't attract the massive crowds seen on the Little Circuit. And for those who are a bit more adventurous, the outlying temples 20-50 miles beyond the immediate Angkor area boasts some of the most unique and stunning ruins, in my opinion.

I'll go ahead and list the temples/sites I visited on each of the three days, and then describe in detail some of the more interesting events along the way.

Day 1:  Angkor Thom + Big Circuit + Banteay Srey
  • Angkor Thom (Bayon, Baphuon, Phimeanakas, Terrace of the Elephants, Terrace of the Leper King)
  • Preah Khan
  • Ta Som
  • Banteay Srey (outlying temple 23 miles north of Angkor area)
  • East Mebon
  • Pre Rup

Day 2:  Beng Mealea + Kompong Phluk
  • Beng Mealea (outlying temple 45 miles east of Siem Reap)
  • Kompong Phluk (floating village)

Day 3:  Angkor Wat + Little Circuit
  • Angkor Wat (sunrise and afternoon)
  • Ta Prohm
  • Ta Nei
  • Ta Keo
  • Banteay Kdei

The first day actually turned out to be the longest and most strenuous, which, in hindsight, was probably a good plan. By the third day, I was pretty worn out by all the walking in the intense heat. The best advice I can give is to start the day as early as you can. Not only will you avoid some of the harshest daytime sunlight, but arriving at 6:00 or 7:00 am also affords you the opportunity to bypass the massive crowds of tourists that descend on the ruins later in the morning. Unfortunately, we arrived a little late at Angkor Thom on the first day, and Bayon was absolutely packed to the brim. It was even difficult to walk along the pathways at times because of the congestion. Still, it was quite amazing to see the famous stone faces that adorn just about every facet of the temple.

Bayon



Monday, August 27, 2012

Cambodia April 2012 - Le Méridien Angkor (Or How I Was Violated In My Own Room)

***This post is part 9 of a full trip report. The index can be found here***

My stay at the Le Méridien Angkor started out wonderfully. It then devolved into the most surreal and downright terrifying experience I've ever had at a hotel. When I later met with the general manager, he commented that in his 22 years of working in the industry, this was an incident he'd never even heard of.

I arrived at the Le Méridien Angkor around early evening, and was immediately taken by the beautiful lobby area. The high ceilings and modern, yet stately, architecture really made for a good first impression. Check-in was smooth, as I was asked to relax in the sitting area while they prepared the paperwork. A cold welcome drink was also served.





Tuesday, August 21, 2012

Cambodia April 2012 - The Pavilion Hotel And Exploring Phnom Penh

***This post is part 7 of a full trip report. The index can be found here***

I located the line for the official airport taxi and decided it was worth a few extra dollars for the peace of mind that comes with legitimate cabs. I've heard way too many horror stories of taxi scams, rigged meters, abductions, etc. And the set price of $9 USD for the one-way trip into town wasn't terrible either.

Once inside the taxi, the driver asked if I needed a cab over the next few days to see the sights around Phnom Penh. I had already anticipated having to find a taxi to take me to the Choeung Ek Killing Fields, Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, and Russian Market, so I negotiated a price of $25 for a half day with him to see all three sites. While that might not have been the lowest price I could have gotten if I shopped around and really bargained hard, I felt it was reasonable enough, and the driver seemed like a friendly guy. We set the pick-up time for 10:00 am the next day.

By the time I arrived at the hotel, it was already dark and I was getting hungry. The entrance to The Pavilion Hotel was very nondescript - just a wooden door set in a high wall along a quiet street. Once inside, I noticed how lush the landscaping was, with so many plants it felt a bit like you were in a jungle. The lobby was nicely decorated, and I was greeted with a refreshing passion fruit drink. After checking in, I was led to my room in the back of the hotel - which I liked because it was a bit more private and away from the other guest rooms.

Entrance to The Pavilion Hotel

Lobby area



Tuesday, April 24, 2012

Cambodia April 2012 - Introduction

***This post is part 1 of a full trip report. The index can be found here***

Planning for this trip started more than a year ago, when I decided I wanted to visit Cambodia and Laos. I already had two long vacations planned for 2011 (Tokyo/Vietnam and New Zealand), so of course, this trip had to be pushed back to spring of 2012. One of the benefits of committing almost a year in advance is that award availability is often wide open - and that's exactly what I saw when I started to do some preliminary searches online. I decided I wanted to try out Cathay Pacific's business class going there, and a variety of first class flights on Star Alliance airlines coming back.

I had miles on both American Airlines as well as British Airways (pre-devaluation), but it made more sense for me to use AA since it only cost 5,000 more miles in business class one-way, and I could save hundreds in fuel surcharges that were imposed by BA. In addition, as I described in my trip report on Zion National Park, I was able to tack on a LAS-(LAX)-SFO leg months in advance of my actual departure date due to American Airline's one-stopover-at-a-North-American-gateway rule. In the end, my itinerary looked like LAS-(LAX)-SFO-(HKG)-PNH, with a five month "stopover" in San Francisco. Total cost was 55,000 AAdvantage miles and $32.50 in taxes and fees. SFO-HKG was on Cathay Pacific business class, and HKG-PNH on Dragonair business class.

Curiously though, despite the nearly universal rule that no changes are allowed after travel has already begun on an award ticket, I was not only able to change my SFO-(HKG)-PNH departure date after I had already flown the LAS-(LAX)-SFO leg, but the routing as well! In late January, I realized that I would have to push back my departure date from San Francisco as well as cancel the entire Laos portion of my trip due to crazy deadlines at work. I called up American Airlines hoping and praying that they would let me change the dates, but I was pretty much prepared to just cancel the entire vacation. Amazingly, the agent I got happily pushed my departure date back by a month, and even allowed me to change the routing to SFO-(LAX)-(HKG)-PNH (since no direct SFO-HKG flights were available)! I was floored at how flexible she was, and best of all, I realized I would be able to try out Cathay Pacific's new business class on the LAX-HKG flight! I definitely think I lucked out with this particular phone agent, but it really speaks to how important it is to simply hang up and call back if you ever get an uncooperative customer service representative.

For my return flights, I had originally booked VTE-BKK-(HKG)-ICN-LAX-SFO using United Airlines miles in first class (with some business class segments). The total cost was 72,500 MileagePlus miles (pre-award chart changes in June 2011) plus $79.60 in taxes and fees. However, due to the work commitments I mentioned, I had to cancel the VTE-BKK leg and push all the dates back by a month as well. Again, I got lucky with the phone agent because usually, changing the origin/destination incurs an additional $75 fee for non-elites. However, I was able to convince her that I was simply removing one segment from my itinerary. After getting approval from her supervisor, she agreed to make the changes without any fees! In the end, I had a BKK-(HKG)-ICN-LAX-SFO itinerary, with BKK-HKG on Thai Airways first class, HKG-ICN-LAX on Asiana Airlines business and first class, and LAX-SFO on United Airlines first class.

In early 2012, Cambodia Angkor Air finally fixed their website and I was able to book a one-way PNH-REP flight very easily, for a total cost of $88.00. Although this is only a 45-minute flight gate-to-gate, they can pretty much charge whatever they want since flights are almost always full of tourists. Similarly, for REP-BKK, Bangkok Airways has a complete monopoly over this route, so the one-hour, one-way flight ended up costing a whopping $276.68! Luckily, I was able to use 20,751 ThankYou points to offset the cost.

So with all the flight dates finally set, I was able to start planning for hotel stays and places I wanted to visit during the week I would be in Cambodia. In addition, I had stopovers in Bangkok and a very long overnight layover in Seoul which I had to plan for. It just so happened during this time that Starwood Preferred Guest announced category changes for their hotels, and I noticed that both the Le Meridien Angkor and the Aloft Bangkok were going down one category (3 to 2 and 2 to 1, respectively). I quickly took advantage of these changes and booked my cash and points stay for both hotels. In the end, the Le Meridien Angkor only cost 1,600 Starpoints + $30 per night, and the Aloft Bangkok only cost 1,200 Starpoints + $25 per night!

For my stay in Phnom Penh, there was actually an InterContinental in town, but the location wasn't convenient and the reviews were just ok. So I went with The Pavilion Hotel, a smaller local chain that was reasonably priced and very close to the Royal Palace and National Museum. For Seoul, I had a 23-hour layover, which gave me plenty of time to go into the city and visit a friend of mine. I had a category 1-4 free night e-cert from my Chase Marriott Visa that was expiring in May, so it worked out perfectly. I booked one night at the Courtyard Seoul Times Square, which was in a good location... although location really matters very little in Seoul since the metro system is so vast and efficient.

Total amount spent out of pocket for all airfare (including taxes and fees) and hotels ended up being $480.10, in addition to 55,000 AAdvantage miles, 72,500 MileagePlus miles, 20,751 ThankYou points, and 8,800 SPG points. There would be some adjustments later on, however, after my interesting stay at the Le Meridien Angkor!

Tuesday, April 17, 2012

Cambodia April 2012 Trip Report

I've been feeling a little reticent since coming back from Cambodia last week. Perhaps it's the post-vacation blues... or maybe it's just laziness. Regardless, I'm finally ready to begin writing my full trip report, and I'm actually very excited to recap the truly epic highs and sadly, dismal lows, of my week and a half in Asia.

This will be a rather abbreviated report in terms of destinations, given that I really only visited two main places: Phnom Penh and Siem Reap. The good thing is that I was able to pack in quite a number of flights in such a short time. Unfortunately, not all of them turned out to be enjoyable, and I apologize in advance for a few of the entries, since they will be rather, shall we say, lacking, to say the least. Read on for all the details:

Monday, April 9, 2012

Back From Cambodia!

I've finally returned from my trip to Cambodia last night, and first I must apologize for the dearth of posts this past week. Apparently I live in the Stone Age and still don't own a laptop, so updating my blog was pretty much out of the question. I do have an iPhone, but navigating the Blogger site on a 3.5-inch touchscreen is an absolute nightmare. Ultimately, I gave up and decided to just leave things be until I got back to the States.

Needless to say, there have been a ton of amazing, curious, and even terrifying things I've wanted to post about while traveling. I will save all the gory details for the full trip report (which I hope to get started on this weekend), but I wanted to cover a few of the highlights (and lowlights) of the past week:

  • The most terrifying hotel incident I've ever experienced happened at the Le Meridien Angkor. I don't want to spoil all the details here, but let's just say it involved me, completely naked and hysterical, and a hotel employee who refused to leave my room. This is an incident that the general manager of the hotel said he's never even heard of in his 22 years in the industry.
  • Complete and utter disappointment with the Thai Airways Royal First Class Lounge at Bangkok Suvarnabhumi Airport. Want a private room? Sorry, they're all taken. Want a full-body massage? Sorry we're all booked. I've never felt so let down by expectations... especially since I planned a rather roundabout itinerary just so I could experience the lounge. 
  • Jaw-dropping amazement with Asiana Airlines First Class service from Seoul to Los Angeles. I've never in my life received such spectacular service - on any airline, anywhere. And there are no superlatives fitting for the eight-course dinner that was presented, except to say that it rivals any Michelin star restaurant I've ever visited at the very least. This experience literally put Cathay Pacific's First Class service to shame, and I can say that Asiana is truly in a class of its own.
  • Cambodia was simply beautiful. Angkor Wat was every bit as stunning as everyone has made it out to be. Just be ready for the crowds. I tried to go to the temples as early as possible to avoid the hoards of people. Also, the ruins of Beng Mealea about an hour and a half outside of Siem Reap is an absolute must. This is the only place where you can still literally climb through a completely unrestored temple. The place was just surreal.

I will try to get started as soon as possible with the full trip report, but of course, I'm already back at my day job and have a backlog of work piled up. A vacation from my vacation would be nice right about now! I'll leave you with a picture I took of Angkor Wat at sunrise on my last day there... one of the most beautiful sights I've ever seen.

Wednesday, March 28, 2012

Prepping For Cambodia

I'll be leaving for Cambodia today, and I'm especially excited for this trip because of all the different airlines I get to sample, including Cathay Pacific in their new business class, Dragonair, Cambodia Angkor Air, Bangkok Airways, Thai Airways in first class, and Asiana Airlines in both business and first class... just to name a few. I booked a rather complicated return route so I could squeeze in a visit to the Thai Airways Royal First Class Lounge in Bangkok, and also try out Asiana Airlines' first class service from Seoul to Los Angeles. Of course, a full trip report will be forthcoming once I return in early April.

I'm also extremely excited to finally be able to see the famed Angkor Wat. Many of my friends have recounted their amazing experiences there, and I've wanted to visit as soon as possible - before more renovations and access restrictions take effect. Unfortunately, I actually had to cut this trip shorter than planned, as it originally included another week in Laos. The month of March turned into an absolute nightmare at my day job, and I didn't want to give my manager a heart attack by telling him I'd be taking two and a half weeks off! Hopefully I'll be able to visit Laos within the next year or two.

Finally, I'm slightly nervous since this is my first solo trip in about five years. Typically I'm very comfortable navigating around large cities by myself anywhere in the world, but Cambodia might just be a little more adventurous. I will continue to post pictures and updates sporadically, although WiFi access might be spotty depending on where I'm at. Wish me luck, and I'll see you guys again in April!

Sunday, February 26, 2012

Cambodia Angkor Air Finally Resumes Online Booking

In a bit of obscure airline news, Cambodia Angkor Air's website has finally fixed their online booking engine. I had been planning my Cambodia trip ever since I booked the international segments last summer, and I knew for the domestic leg from Phnom Penh (PNH) to Siem Reap (REP), I wanted to try out Cambodia Angkor Air. While it is a very short flight at 45 minutes, and their fleet of ATR 72s aren't especially comfortable, it isn't every day that you get to experience a small boutique airline halfway around the world!

Last summer, when I went on Cambodia Angkor Air's website, it directed all customers to the Vietnam Airlines website in order to book tickets. This is due to the fact that Vietnam Airlines owns a 49% stake in Cambodia Angkor Air, and they have a somewhat better online presence. However, once I was on the Vietnam Airlines website, it became clear that there was absolutely no way to book domestic Cambodia flights.

I created a thread on Flyertalk about this issue and got many responses, all basically saying that there was no current way to book domestic Cambodia Angkor Air tickets online. The only way was to either book it through your hotel, or wait until you actually arrive in Cambodia and find a travel agent.

Finally, around the end of November, someone posted on the same Flyertalk thread that Cambodia Angkor Air had relaunched their website and was now able to take online reservations. A week later, however, when I noticed the post and tried to go on the website, a message appeared stating that the booking engine was under maintenance, and to check back later. This message then stayed on there for the next three months!

Just today, when I inadvertently went on Cambodia Angkor Air's website again, I suddenly noticed that the front page had slightly changed, and a flight search function had been added. Immediately, I entered the date I needed and saw that it was indeed allowing online reservations! It accepted my Visa with no issues, and there were no additional charges for using a credit card. However, it does warn you that the name on the card must match at least one of the passengers on the ticket, and you must present the card at the airport for verification.

So if you have an upcoming trip to Cambodia, be aware that you no longer need to book the domestic leg through a hotel or travel agent. Hopefully the website will continue to remain functional from now on.